Sivut

lauantai 22. maaliskuuta 2014

1809 riding habit in the style of Königin Luise von Preußen

This riding habit was heavily influenced by the two portraits Wilhelm Ternite painted of Queen Louise of Prussia in 1808-1810. I followed the portraits closely but once again didn't set out to do an exact copy. The original is in a museum and, having seen photos of it, I knew it was closer in color to the second of those portraits but I loved the way it looked in the darker portrait so I chose an almost navy blue wool. It's lined with white silk taffeta and trimmed in Hussar fashion with gold military lace, vintage buttons and two different widths of russia braid. Interlining consists of linen canvas and horse hair. Every stitch is hand sewn with linen and silk threads. 

I'm wearing it over my shift and stays, a chemisette and a high waisted petticoat. Accessories include my riding gloves and a ready made wool top hat I trimmed with a tussle I made from ostrich feathers. Shoes and stockings (not visible) are purchased.




















Clothing layers:

With only the spencer removed. The wool skirt has shoulder straps to keep it in place.



The cotton petticoat.



The chemisette.


Construction:

The skirt is patterned after the 1795-1810 riding habit skirt in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion but instead of leaving it long all the way round, I cut the hem floor length in front and left a little train. That seemed to be common with riding habits in fashion plates from around 1810.

I drafted the pattern for the spencer using the portrait and photos of museum spencers as guide. 

Friedrich Wilhelm Ternite, Königin Luise, 1808/09

I sewed the spencer and it's lining together separately. I pad stitched the fronts and collar with two layers of linen canvas with horsehair interlining in between. I needed it to be extra stiff to hold the braiding and the buttons. I braided the spencer before joining it with the lining.

The spencer ready for the lining.


The lining in place.




I'm very grateful to Sabine for sharing all details from her 1806 Paradeuniformkleid Königin Luise -project because otherwise I would have most likely assumed she would have worn a high collar shirt underneath her spencer. Following her example I was able to do a quick and simple version of my own.

There is a base of sturdier cotton.


Which I covered with gathered a layer of sheer cotton.


34 kommenttia:

  1. How...just...HOW???! You are a magician! A true Artist! Brilliant!

    VastaaPoista
  2. HUZZAH! Königin Luise would have been very delighted to see the riding habit :)
    It feels as if you just stepped out of Ternite's painting...the blue of the wool and the sparkling blingbling gold match perfectly and it's such a pleasure to see this painting become alive!!!
    It's also amazing how different the impression is compared to Queen Louise's second 'uniform', which is really less sparkly!
    I love all the attention you've put into detail...all the layers work together wonderfully and create a perfect picture...and I had to chuckle seeing that you've kept your hat on while presenting all the different layers of the garment - quite a regal attitude :)
    I'm in awe !!! And I'm sooooo looking forward seeing more from this era !!!

    Sabine

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you so much! And thank you especially for making the project diary for the other uniform. It was most helpful. And I have to say that I think the other is very flashy too. Maybe a little less sparkle but then the red and blue make a very striking combination. I've tried to decide which original design I like more but it seems impossible. She had such fantastic style. :)

      Poista
  3. Beautiful work with the soutache :), and wonderful fit. I wish I had the patience to do something quite so elaborate. It's interesting to note that in the painting, her spencer's buttoned like a man's. I wonder if that was the norm at the time.

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      It's curious. I wondered about it too but the other portrait seems to be mirrored. The original buttons the opposite way.
      http://www.pinterest.com/pin/536421005586040151/

      Poista
  4. I have no words. Unbelievably gorgeous!! Though I never for a moment thought that it might be anything else but stunning :) All that military glamour and the trimmings! I'm in love with the trimmings. I've said it before, but your endless patience and meticulousness with the tiniest details never ceases to amaze me. It must have taken forever and a day to get the trimmings so even and neat! Wonderful work.

    VastaaPoista
  5. Stepped out of the portrait! :) And I love how you keep on the hat till the end. Thank you for sharing all the layers and inspirations!

    VastaaPoista
  6. Gorgeous! I am curious how many meters of soutache you used. Very impressive work!

    VastaaPoista
  7. Stunning!!! You hit the silhouette perfectly, and the trim is just beautifully done--all those curves so well done and nicely matched. I want to steal this one for myself... :)!

    Best,
    Quinn

    VastaaPoista
  8. So incredibly beautiful! How do you manage the details to turn out so unbelievably even? By the way, I don't know what it is about riding habits but they're stunning no matter which period they're from!

    VastaaPoista
  9. This is absolutely stunning! I am speechless! Absolutely speechless!
    thedeviantdressmaker.blogspot.com

    VastaaPoista
  10. Absolutely gorgeous! You did a fantastic job. My twin sister was speechless when I showed your work to her! :-)

    VastaaPoista
  11. I am in awe. I do not even know where to start with the praise!

    VastaaPoista
  12. This is so amazing! Beautiful and inspiring work!

    VastaaPoista
  13. Beautiful! As always.

    and btw, I think Luise von Preußen was one of the best dressed women.

    VastaaPoista
  14. So very pretty! I've often looked at the portraits you used as inspiration and its wonderful to see such a beautiful version of them.

    VastaaPoista
  15. How beautiful! Wonderful stuff, Merja!

    VastaaPoista
  16. I love it! *__*
    I have to learn how to put trims as good as you do!

    Lisa

    VastaaPoista
  17. This is fantastic! So much detail, I love it.
    -Emily

    Emily's Vintage Visions

    VastaaPoista
  18. Simply fabulous! I feel like it's pretty much pointless to repeat how much I love blue with gold but here we go again ;) And I'm glad you didn't make the skirt long all the way around the hem, it looks so much better with a train like this.

    VastaaPoista
  19. The very best reconstruction of this garments! Very excellent.

    VastaaPoista
  20. Marvelous! Simply marvelous! I love the color of this riding habit! You did a most fabulous job turning all of that soutache and the buttons are so shiny! I have a case of perma-grin just looking at this outfit! Most splendid indeed!!

    Blessings!
    Gina

    VastaaPoista
  21. This is a wonderful piece and you look so dapper in it. I especially love the detailing on the back. It's clean and elegant with a bit of flair that makes it very charming. Great job!

    VastaaPoista
  22. Incredibly lovely, and thank you so much for showing the interior of the jacket before you placed the lining! It is so helpful to see where you have placed your reinforcement.

    VastaaPoista
  23. This is so pretty, you are so talented!! It is a joy to watch your dresses! :))
    Greetings,
    Fresh Wife :)

    VastaaPoista
  24. Luise Auguste Wilhelmine Amalie
    http://youtu.be/Ic2LP3a6dYo

    VastaaPoista